Thursday 4th October – The final day in Degan / Kombolche

At one point it was suggested that we might have completed business and be ready to travel back to Addis today – a day early. Not sure where the idea came from but there is not a chance. The MoU is getting very close but is not signed off yet. The donations for Degan High School are still in my possession, and some final gifts for the Health Centre have yet to be handed over. I have a sense that there is a reason for everything happening in the way and at the speed it does. I also have a sense that there is neither any point nor any need to try and explain this. Geldof’s words about ‘direct engagement with life’ echo in my memory and seem to explain everything at a fundamental level. So begins another busy day.

The first stop for the morning is at the Regional Health Authority offices in Kombolche. The MoU terms are finalized and we have a printed copy in our possession. Despite the complete failure of other attempts to use what little technology we find on offer in this remotely connected part of the world, that part has worked perfectly. The Degan Community leader, Shemeles and Health Centre Director Eshetu are scheduled to meet us there at 10am. Local representatives and higher authorities spoken to on the phone at the very time they factor into our plans should be, and are already there awaiting our arrival. It has been a long road to reach this point, but I have confidence that the terms of the agreement are not only acceptable but also defined by, and entirely relevant to the paries concerned. The Woreda (regional) Health Authority is accepting responsibility for running costs, driver appointment, salary and ensuring long term sustainability of the ambulance service. The Health Centre is assured that the vehicle will be dedicated for use as an ambulance service under their direction. The Community acknowledges its role in managing the service, as well as the benefits it will undoubtedly provide.

Sheik Alam (top right) is the one in this company who hasn’t been involved in earlier discussions. He is a senior official and a key person in acceptance and implementation of the deal. Sam’s smile reflects my own sense of joy and relief, when, at a certain point in the discussion to explain the terms and the purpose of the agreement, he picks up a pen and starts signing the document. I am not sure what the protocol is but this seems to be a signal that its ok for others to sign also and six copies of the document get passed around the table for signing and stamping - a most satisfying culmination to the discussions of the past few days. This may seem over played when the focus of the discussion has been on a group of overseas donors promising to gift a brand new and not inexpensive vehicle for the use of the local community. However, its important for us to know that long term sustainability of the service is in the picture, that responsibility for this rests in local hands and that accountability factors are nailed down.

In a context where little private transport is available for any purpose, and four wheel drive necessary for much of the terrain, it would be easy to see the pressure of other demands being put on the organization owning such a vehicle. The advice from long established and locally experienced contacts that we are keen to follow and the family’s understanding of local culture is that making the gift publicly, visibly and on very specific terms will exclude the possibility of anyone trying to over rule the agreement. In a country where anyone can go above the head of anyone else to lodge a genuine complaint and be guaranteed a fair hearing, we are confident that the backing and signed agreement from all these stakeholders will serve the purpose well. Thanks to the intimate local knowledge gained through years of local experience and friendships, without which this deal would not have been possible. It is no wonder that sometimes the road to sustainable development through international aid is paved with misread good intentions.


So we have our prize - or so we believe - head back to Tekle's to pick up the rest of the team and drive on out to Degan.

Make a brief stop on the way to grab some pics of this rather unusual site - a rusting Russian tank long since abandoned in a ditch at the side of a road. We are not the only ones gawping at it. I guess there is a story to be told, but no time or opportunity for us to learn what it is.

Perhaps another time - the same goes for a visit to Degan or Bati markets, to the ancient rock hewn temples at Lalibela and other sights that attract a growing number of the more adventurous type of tourists. The visit to Degan High School is finally getting closer to reality though! Today could be the day - in fact it has to be!