After the rain continued...
After being fed on delicious fresh papaya, a soup bowl EACH full of delicious local honey to eat neat with a spoon(!!) and given a huge bag of locally grown (D-licious) bananas to take away, we jump back in the transport ready to leave – in good time for our next appointment, despite the unscheduled pause to appreciate the rain and really take in the environment.
Classes end and the kids come running out to do what seems to be the accepted treatment of strangers i.e. stare. The best photo opportunity of the day came out of this, as I had time to study the amazing creative hairstyles, the uniformly shabby clothes and the stunningly expressive faces without feeling like an intruder. I wonder what they are thinking about, starting so intensely at the ferengi. My own thoughts are: how varied the features that point to the different ethnic groups that have arrived here over the course of a long recorded history that predates the biblical era (a few are tall, most are short, light and dark skinned, fine featured, Arabian looking - but more on that later - particularly after I've read a bit of local history); how open the expressions; how photogenic the faces and how curious the habit of starting, though I am doing the same, perhaps with a different (photographer's) intent. I do wonder if a group of kids of my own race would seem as captivating - I would surely find as much variety there. Many of these look like old souls in young bodies.
The drive back to Degan is a little more silent and seat gripping after the rain. No cause for concern though, with a highly experienced driver, who incidentally rates amongst the healthiest physiques I have seen since my arrival. Its gratifying to see someone who looks like he gets to enjoy food and has enough to eat. We only slide sideways on muddy bends a couple of times, and are at least 5 metres away from the edge of the canyon at the time! It is still a relief to pick our way back across the river bed and up the steep bank that means we are only five minutes away from Degan town centre. This is not the actual river crossing but it gives an idea of the terrain.
It feels good to be arriving on time, even though our lateness has been graciously accepted on all other occasions. We still haven’t managed to deliver the gifts to the high school, despite carrying the heavy green bag full of books, laptop and camera back and forth every day and even unpacking it on one occasion. The deputy principal is in the company for lunch today and seems quite content about matters.
I am pleased to be donating an older but excellent digital camera to the school, as he seems enthusiastic about operating one. Still and video cams are handed around for people to have a go.
There is quite a gathering and everyone else sits quietly observing the fast while we are served another traditional and fairly extravagant meal. Fresh salad of lettuce, tomatoes and peppers -books and GPs warn travellers not to eat this but I’ve been ‘risking it’ since we arrived at Tekle’s with no ill effects so far - traditional chilli rich meat stew and njera, the staple sorghum pancake that is served at every meal. This is made from mashila – the crop that features in the video as susceptible to pests. I have seen this time that some of it will end up as cattle feed because the rain doesn’t come at the time its needed to ripen. The difference between healthy yellow heads and dry, colourless ones is strikingly obvious. There is also a fairly high risk of crop disease.
The meal is followed by delicious coffee served in the traditional way - ground in a mortar and pestle, heated over charcoal in small earthenware pots and served in tiny cups, strong and black with sugar. There is a different name for the first, second and third pours. More water is added each time and the pot reheated. Three is enough to keep anyone going for the rest of the day! Its so tempting to drink more because its such delicious coffee.
After coffee, a large bag of gifts appears and we are all indulged with beautiful traditional gifts, woven shawls, Ethiopian Millenium tshirts and traditional cotton outfits. Much posing for pictures intervenes before our next stop at the Health Centre.
(Here is one for those who wanted proof I was there). Looks like the high school will miss out again today. I try not to panic about this. Tomorrow is planned to be our last day in Degan and the MoU for the ambulance is still the top priority of the trip. I have learned to trust in things working and will not be disappointed.
Classes end and the kids come running out to do what seems to be the accepted treatment of strangers i.e. stare. The best photo opportunity of the day came out of this, as I had time to study the amazing creative hairstyles, the uniformly shabby clothes and the stunningly expressive faces without feeling like an intruder. I wonder what they are thinking about, starting so intensely at the ferengi. My own thoughts are: how varied the features that point to the different ethnic groups that have arrived here over the course of a long recorded history that predates the biblical era (a few are tall, most are short, light and dark skinned, fine featured, Arabian looking - but more on that later - particularly after I've read a bit of local history); how open the expressions; how photogenic the faces and how curious the habit of starting, though I am doing the same, perhaps with a different (photographer's) intent. I do wonder if a group of kids of my own race would seem as captivating - I would surely find as much variety there. Many of these look like old souls in young bodies.
The drive back to Degan is a little more silent and seat gripping after the rain. No cause for concern though, with a highly experienced driver, who incidentally rates amongst the healthiest physiques I have seen since my arrival. Its gratifying to see someone who looks like he gets to enjoy food and has enough to eat. We only slide sideways on muddy bends a couple of times, and are at least 5 metres away from the edge of the canyon at the time! It is still a relief to pick our way back across the river bed and up the steep bank that means we are only five minutes away from Degan town centre. This is not the actual river crossing but it gives an idea of the terrain.
It feels good to be arriving on time, even though our lateness has been graciously accepted on all other occasions. We still haven’t managed to deliver the gifts to the high school, despite carrying the heavy green bag full of books, laptop and camera back and forth every day and even unpacking it on one occasion. The deputy principal is in the company for lunch today and seems quite content about matters.
I am pleased to be donating an older but excellent digital camera to the school, as he seems enthusiastic about operating one. Still and video cams are handed around for people to have a go.
There is quite a gathering and everyone else sits quietly observing the fast while we are served another traditional and fairly extravagant meal. Fresh salad of lettuce, tomatoes and peppers -books and GPs warn travellers not to eat this but I’ve been ‘risking it’ since we arrived at Tekle’s with no ill effects so far - traditional chilli rich meat stew and njera, the staple sorghum pancake that is served at every meal. This is made from mashila – the crop that features in the video as susceptible to pests. I have seen this time that some of it will end up as cattle feed because the rain doesn’t come at the time its needed to ripen. The difference between healthy yellow heads and dry, colourless ones is strikingly obvious. There is also a fairly high risk of crop disease.
The meal is followed by delicious coffee served in the traditional way - ground in a mortar and pestle, heated over charcoal in small earthenware pots and served in tiny cups, strong and black with sugar. There is a different name for the first, second and third pours. More water is added each time and the pot reheated. Three is enough to keep anyone going for the rest of the day! Its so tempting to drink more because its such delicious coffee.
After coffee, a large bag of gifts appears and we are all indulged with beautiful traditional gifts, woven shawls, Ethiopian Millenium tshirts and traditional cotton outfits. Much posing for pictures intervenes before our next stop at the Health Centre.
(Here is one for those who wanted proof I was there). Looks like the high school will miss out again today. I try not to panic about this. Tomorrow is planned to be our last day in Degan and the MoU for the ambulance is still the top priority of the trip. I have learned to trust in things working and will not be disappointed.
posted by Cathy Gunn at
October 30, 2007
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