Darien GA

Bearing the same name as the failed Central American colony that almost bankrupted Scotland in 1698, Darien in southern Georgia was ‘founded’ by a group of highland 'warriors' around forty years later. I read somewhere that the few survivors from that ill-fated attempt to found a Scottish empire actually came to Darien Georgia after the event.

So it really was no surprise to find posters o’ men in kilts for the annual ‘Heritage Day’ and the Kirkin o’ the Tartan when I arrived there for a bit of latter day exploration. I’ve only ever seen the Kirkin in NZ, in fact I’d never heard of it before I went to the very kirk in Waipu where the tradition was being replayed.

Given the reputation of parts of the US, it was no surprise either to count the number of churches in a town of only 1800 people. There are definitely more houses of worship than public houses in this wee corner of the globe – unlike where some of those early settlers came from. Although no law requires it now, there is visible separation of black and white. Each group seems to prefer their own style of worship, and there sure is plenty of choice. African Baptist seems a clear one, though I wonder how one decides whether one is First Presbyterian or simply Presbyterian?

Being a stranger to most of these traditions, and finding little else to do on Sunday, I passed a pleasant few hours strolling around eavesdropping on different congregations. Although I’m sure they exist, I didn’t find any white ones ‘giving it laldy’ to quite the same extent as this.

African Baptist.mov (coming soon - upload failed on 1st attempt)

The book ‘Praying for Sheetrock’ by Melissa Fay Greene recounts Darien’s recent history much better than I ever could. Its also a great read, which I recommend it to anyone interested in what life was like in a small town with a corrupt dynasty of Sheriffs in the deep south in the decades before and after the civil rights movement hit the headlines in the 1960s.

Just a few snippets of other things that found their way into my photo collection - originally, buildings were made of ‘tabby’ a mix of lime, sand, and oyster shells. Although few actual buildings remain - an African Episcopal church being probably the best example - the strength of a tabby wall is obvious with this huge tree growing on top.

Darien is sited on a big river (Altamaha) and close to the coast so seafood is always on the menu.

And finally – I just happened to be walking down the street when a fleet of school buses was queuing to cross the road.


Next - reconstructed Fort King George, Sapelo Island and life on a rice plantation.